Eat your greens!

Trying to eat a plant-based diet in Montevideo has been a challenge. As Wikipedia notes, “Beef is very important in Uruguayan cuisine and an essential part of many dishes.” Given that beef exports are a mainstay of the Uruguayan economy, this is not so surprising.

So far, I haven’t found a ‘vegetarian-friendly’ restaurant here that is both open in the evening and serves dishes focused on vegetables (as opposed, say, to veggie burgers or smoothies). However, I’m gradually discovering alternatives. On Saturday afternoon, I stumbled across a fairly substantial fruit and vegetable market (feria vecinal) on Avenida Salto, just around the corner from where I’m staying. Unfortunately I didn’t have the time or carrying-capacity to buy ingredients at that point.

Leftovers from Salto market

Later on that day, however, I headed over to Ecotiendas, a nearby organic store. It was the second time I’d been there, but I was suddenly struck by how many different kinds of leafy greens there were. I recognised cavolo nero, regular kale, chard (pictured at the top of this post), spring greens, rocket, different sorts of lettuce, but there were certainly some leaves hat I just couldn’t identify. Lots of scope for future exploration.

Selection of leafy greens at Ecotiendas

Avocados with a view

Most days, we have lunch on our balcony, and it usually includes avocados. Not from Mexico (where much of its production is apparently controlled by a drug cartel) or from California (where they drain water from an already dried-out soil). Our avocados come from, uhm…

Anyway, we love avocados. We eat them mindfully, to make up for the fact that we probably shouldn’t.

Two very hard avocados have been sitting on the round table on our balcony deck for five days. They are meant to ripen, and the sun has done its best, as has the company of bananas. None of it works: they are not yielding.

Today, a possible explanation occurred to us. Just look at the view. The Vancouver skyline to the right. The mountains opposite, majestic and assured (if you look west you can still see some snow). The river (or is it a firth, or an ocean estuary?) peacefully lapping away, only disturbed occasionally by a heron slightly adjusting its position, or a gull diving for a fish. Two or three old-fashioned cargo boats that have thrown out their anchor and are sitting dreamily on the water.

These avocados just want to contemplate the view for as long as they can. And who can blame them?

But for one avocado, the strategy backfires when a crow in one experienced swoop disfigures it with a few furious pokes.

Beyond Bread

The weather app on my phone lets me select “favourite” locations for weather forecasts. At the moment, it looks like this:

It’s currently 16C in Vancouver and over the next few days, all my “favourite” places (including Edinburgh) are predicting significantly warmer weather than where we are.

We are comforting ourselves by going for early morning coffee in Beyond Bread, which has become our favourite go-to place on West 4th Avenue, less than 10 minutes stroll from our temporary home on Point Grey Road.

Indulgent breakfast in Beyond Bread

Macchiato, single-shot-cappucino with fresh cashew nut milk, plain croissant and monkey bread (“cinnamon orange pull-apart croissant”). Who cares about the weather anyhow?

Routine strikes

Iconicfigure on Telegraph Avenue

Somewhat scattered start today with phone calls to UK over Klein family issues; and email; and some travel arrangements up in the air. When we finally got out of the house we had a serious meeting in front of Peet’s Coffee on Solano about the need for routine. We were all three awake in the night, and restless; Maaike had a nightmare. We will remedy it all with rhythm and routine.

So Ewan worked and visited a contact at UC Berkeley, and Maaike and I went up Indian Rock and down Shattuck, to Shambhala, which occupies part of a floor in a huge and pretty austere 50ies building. I made a note of meditation times. Pema Chodron teaches every second Tuesday of the month, which is the day we set off for Fiji.

Back home we immersed ourselves in Maaike’s first home schooling tutorial, on the US of A and its history. We need an atlas; there is a lot to learn. The civil war for instance, and how slavery got abolished. Not to mention contemporary race relations. 

Maaike cooked. Stuffed artichokes with delicious dips, and jazzy tofu, seriously. All worth the wait. Life feels more settled tonight. 

Bad Hair Day for Maaike

Maaike set off optimistically for her course today; sailing in the morning, but alas, the day was exceptionally misty-moisty and refused to clear. Having booked Maaike on the course to have some time to myself I ended up feeling quite bereft without her. 

The course was not a success. Just a handful of other kids (school has started again this week), and they seem to have ganged up against Maaike, the British latecomer, in a bit of a mean way. Maaike declares she is no way going back. W e regrouped at the Farmer’s market, where we sampled white peaches and crosses of apricot and plum (pluots), all organic. Organic farming is big here — apparently the California soil is like chocolate. The chocolate on the other hand is 87% cacao, which is quite something.

We ended the day all three sprawled in front of one of the four TVs in this house (the house also has four cars attached) watching a pretty pointless Cosby Show spinoff, the best on offer out of umpteen channels, and somehow we enjoyed it anyway. 

Back in Berkeley

I am finally properly jet-lagged, wide awake from 4 am onwards, and crabbily drinking too much tea until we head downtown Berkeley to meet up with Line Mikkelsen: old friend, CogSci student and another precious ex-babysitter.

Customers on sidewalk of Cafe du Monde.

Spirits lift as we have beignets and cafe au lait to celebrate the 35th birthday of Chez Panisse, and lift again as we get a guided tour of the Berkeley campus. We end up shopping on Telegraph Avenue; Maaike buys two pairs of shorts for her Discovery Course tomorrow, and a very pink dress!

Later in the afternoon Maaike and I have popcorn in the tiny local cinema, where we watch Trust the Man.

The Sky is Blue

85I The Alameda, Berkeley (where we are)
60 Leamington Terrace (where our exchange partners have landed)

California! I’d (almost) forgotten how the air smells (of eucalyptus and blossoms with a whiff of mint), how low the toilets are, how big the cars (and the food portions), how sweet the sun – and the people! (apart from the odd cab driver). Maaike and I slept all night and after a slow start ambled down the broad avenues of Berkeley where the Elephant Pharmacy prescribes yoga, and where south Asian cuisine rubs shoulders with one-screen cinemas.

We had lunch at Cafe Gratitude — we ordered “I am joyful” (quinoa, tahini sauce and steamed vegetables — more delicious than it sounds), as well as “I am luscious”, “I am eternally sweet” and “I am accepting” ( the bill). We found Black Oak Books, our first second-hand bookshop of the trip, and I eventually had to drag Ewan out. Maaike declared (at least ten times) that she is going to move to California. If she does I will follow her, and become Berkeley’s first CPP psychotherapist .