One day in New York

One day only. We are predictable and take train no. 7 (Express) to Manhattan.

Our destination is MoMA, an undisputed highlight. But MoMA doesn’t open until 10:30 and, being jetlagged, we’re early. That almost never happens.

To fill up the time, we take a stroll in Central Park. We’re struck by how well-cared for it is, and chat to a friendly, open-faced woman who is part of a group of volunteers busy trimming and tidying. After a while, we pause on a bench near the pond. We feel contented. All is well with the world.

The robed Buddhist monk who approaches us with a smile increases our sense of peace. He strikes up a conversation of a kind; his English is a basic but he does manage to tell us he is from Taiwan. We want to tell him about our own connection with Buddhism, but out of the blue, he takes hold of my arm, then Ewan’s, and slips a wooden-beaded bracelet on each of our wrists, muttering ‘gift, gift’.

We are perplexed; we are not in need of a bracelet (as we are trying to shed rather than acquire stuff). A little tussle ensues (‘no, no, thanks, thanks’ – ‘yes, yes’) which he wins, and as we surrender (remembering that loving kindness is one of the heavenly abodes), he shoves a lined page with names and amounts (ranging from $ 20 to $ 100) onto my lap. The message is clear: look what others give, you must do the same.

Our feeling of harmony has been replaced edgy sense of feeling manipulated – something we don’t respond well too. I feel a little dazed and confused as the smiling monk puts a pencil in my hand and gestures pointedly.

Our friendship with the monk is short and not very sweet, and all three of us know it. To put a stop to it, Ewan reluctantly digs up a $20 note, asking for $10 change. The monk hastily throws us five dollars and turns away. We watch him go, marveling at being such easy prey.

A small illusion poorer, we head for MoMA, which restores our spirits within minutes.

Elmhurst

We took the heroic route from Newark Liberty International Airport to our Airbnb apartment in Queens. Eschewing Uber and disregarding Google’s recommendation of taking an express coach, we waited patiently for an NJ Transit train that would take us to Penn Station. Once in Manhattan, we faffed around for a while trying to figure out whether the 7 was a bus or a subway, and were rescued by a helpful native who pointed us to the subway station around the block. (No, not where Google said it was. Bad Google.) Followed by lots more faffing while we tried to rack our brains and memories about how subway tickets worked, and why the Metrocard machine wouldn’t take our bank cards. After some more mishaps in finding the right platform, we were eventually aboard the 7 Flushing subway line. (NYC subway lines have their own Wikipedia entries. Who knew?) Turned out to be the 7 Flushing Express, rather than the 7 Flushing Local. So we overshot our station, and then immediately took incoming Local train one stop back towards Manhattan.

Apart from that initial total disorientation that descends when you exit a station for the first time and have no idea which point of the compass you are facing (thanks again, Google. Not.), we eventually found our way to the apartment block that contained the apartment that contained our “Spacious, Peaceful” Airbnb room. There we were greeted by monolingual Spanish Agustina, large dog and two cats. We did our best to make friends with all four.

Feeling frazzled from a long day’s travel, we ventured out at 4-ish looking for a small bite. Vietnamese sandwich sounded good, but the place we had identified didn’t feel right. So we backtracked a few stores to the Lao Bei Fang Dumpling House, which somehow called to us. Cheap, cheerful, and pretty full with Asian customers, despite the early hour. We both had enormous bowls of spicy noodle soup, chockfull with vegetables, some familiar, some like lotus root, not so much.

Replenished, we walked a big circuit that took us back towards, Roosevelt Avenue, the bustling commercial centre of Elmhurst. It’s narrow, it’s crowded, it’s full of life and colourful lights. Above it runs the 7 Flushing viaduct. Every two minutes, a train rushes through in one direction or the other, almost drowning out every other sound. But the locals seem to be impervious.

Spiritual Advice

Why we liked Elmhurst? Just consider the demographics: 44% Asian, 48% Latino, 6% Anglo.